After yesterday’s longer day, I gave myself a shorter day for today (16km). Last night I was chatting with my family, and mentioned climbing some Munros on my way to Kinlochleven, if the weather was good enough. The hills yesterday afternoon had been so tempting. Unfortunately, the weather was rather damp, and I decided that it would be the wiser choice to follow the West Highland Way. It also means that I can save my energy for my weekend in Fort William, plus I’ve got some big days at the end of next week.
I had a very leisurely morning, and left the campsite at 9am.
I followed the track to Kingshouse and was quickly there. As I crossed over the bridge, I spotted a deer! I was then really shocked when it walked right up to the path! Its antlers were so fuzzy, I wanted to touch them, but I kept a respectful distance.
The West Highland Way continued along a track to Altnafeadh. As I got closer to the road, I could hear some bagpipes playing in the distance. It was incredible how far the sound must have travelled!
At Altnafeadh, the West Highland Way left the roadside and headed up to the Devil’s Staircase. I had a quick snack, before starting the climb.
Unlike what the name suggests, the Devil’s Staircase was more of a zigzag path, than a staircase. I was very glad of this, I much prefer a path to steps any day! The top of the staircase was just under the cloud, so the nearby mountains were covered in mist.
After climbing over the col, and starting the descent towards Kinlochleven, I stopped on a well placed rock for a spot of lunch.
I continued the descent to Kinlochleven and unfortunately my second pole broke! Thankfully they only have to last one more day, until I get to Fort William.
I took the track down through the woodland and soon arrived at the campsite.
I could only check in at the campsite from 3pm, so I went into Kinlochleven and found a pub for second lunch 😋.
It also had the bonus of beautiful views!
Tomorrow is my last day on the West Highland Way. 15 miles between me and Fort William. I can’t wait to get there and celebrate with my sister. It is going to be so wonderful to see her!
After a lovely night in the hostel, I set off for another day along the West Highland Way.
The clouds brought the occasional light rain, but it was a lovely walk through the woodland tracks. Occasionally there was a break in the trees, and I got magnificent views of the surrounding hills. It felt so good to be back surrounded by the hills!
As I descended towards Tyndrum, I passed a herd of highland cattle. They were very cute, with their long fringes!
I passed through Tyndrum, then took the track towards Bridge of Orchy. The views down the valley were amazing. It was made even better by the fact that the weather was drying up! I sat eating my lunch, admiring the view and listening to an audiobook. The path was quite close to the main road, so there was a bit of road noise.
As I walked along the path, I spotted this little newt. He was very cute!
Once I got to Bridge of Orchy, I stopped in the pub for a much appreciated lemonade.
I then set off on the path to Inveroran. The cloud was lifting which exposed the most beautiful views. I love this landscape so much, it was so amazing to be walking through it. The distant Munro’s had small patches of snow on them. I walked along, dreaming of the ridge routes that you could walk up there!
Along the way, I met Mirjam, from Germany. We walked together for a little while to Inveroran. It was lovely to meet her.
At Inveroran, I stopped to put on some suncream and Mirjam continued on.
After leaving Inveroran, the West Highland Way follows a drove road all of the way to Glencoe. I had originally planned to wild camp along the road. Earlier in the week, I had booked a spot at the Glencoe campsite, in case I fancied a shower (given the wet weather). The campsite added another 8km onto my day, making it 39km (my longest day yet)! I was ahead of time, when I reached the drove road, so I decided I would walk until 5pm, then evaluate where I was, and decided between Glencoe or wild camping.
The views from the drove road were absolutely amazing. Along the way, I caught up with Mirjam again. We walked together for the rest of the way to Glencoe. It turned out that she also has a twin sister, and has a Gemini birthday too. I really enjoyed our chat as we walked along. It was so interesting to find out about her life in Germany.
The drove road was a nice track, which made easy walking to Glencoe. I loved how the clouds made the mountains in the distance look moody.
Mirjam and I soon arrived in Glencoe. We had a drink together, before she continued slightly further to Kingshouse and I pitched my tent.
It had been a really lovely day. I felt so lucky that the rain relented, and allowed me to see the surrounding highlands.
I set off from the hostel nice and early. As expected, the rain had continued overnight and was still going, so I set off in my waterproofs.
As I left, the view from the hostel, wasn’t much of a view! Though it did feel atmospheric.
The West Highland Way started as a team through woodland. The low path, next to the Loch, is currently closed due to forestry works. The lower path is known for being more technical, and having more ascent, so I was quite glad to take the higher path, considering the weather!
I stopped for a quick snack along the way. The rain was quite light, but it was definitely still waterproof weather.
I was super glad that I’d taken the high route, when I came across this beautiful field of bluebells. It was a complete carpet! The colour was so vibrant, it was just breathtaking!
Shortly afterwards, I came across a coffee stall. I stopped for a sausage roll and an orange. The sausage roll was still warm! Whilst I was there, I got chatting to Mary. We shared a room in the hostel last night. She is over from Washington DC to walk the West Highland Way. It was really interesting to chat about the different walks we have done and plan to do.
The high path then rejoined the low path. As I walked through the woodland, I was really surprised to see a red squirrel run across the path in front of me. It felt so special to see one in the wild!
The path in the next section was definitely more technical. It was quite rocky and had multiple burn crossings. The burns were in spate, so an easy crossing, now took more thought. It was a work out for my legs as well as my brain!
With rivers in spate, it did mean that the waterfalls were in full flow and they did look spectacular!
At one of the bridges, I met two men who were doing some repairs. It was nice to chat to them about their work, and I made sure to thank them for their efforts.
As I left Inversnaid, the trail sign had a lovely selection of lichens on the top of it!
As I passed through the Inversnaid Nature Reserve, there were these lovely oak leaf shaped benches.
I decided it was a bit too early for lunch at the oak leaves, but I found a lovely spot further along on the path.
The path had continued to be technical, including this ladder! Although it had slowed me down slightly, my progress didn’t feel slow, and I had a lovely walk through the woodland.
I stopped at the bothy for a snack and a brief spell to dry off. It was a lovely bothy. I checked the bothy book and it turned out that another LEJOGer had also called in today, ahead of me! Whilst I was there, I met a couple of groups. It was nice to hear about their journeys.
The path then climbed up a little and I got lovely final views over the Loch.
At this point the path finally became less technical, which was very welcome as the rain had gotten heavier.
The West Highland Way takes you straight through Benglais Campsite. I stopped for a lemonade and I was very glad for a moment in the dry!
Out of the campsite, the path was a nice wide track. Which eventually narrowed and wound its way through the lowland heath.
For part of the way, I walked with Jane, who is from Liverpool. This is her second long distance trail. It was nice to chat about the different trails over the UK and our varied landscape.
The path followed along the river, which was roaring, after today’s rain. I chose to listen to an audiobook, to block out some of the noise. After a busier morning, my brain was a bit too tired to deal with the noise of water.
After crossing under the road, the path went through some gorse bushes. I was once again surrounded by the smell of coconut.
A while later, it was time to briefly leave the West Highland Way and drop down to Crainlarich. Tonight I’m staying at the youth hostel, which is about 1km off the path. This is very much worth it for the warm shower and bed that awaited me!
I shortly arrived at the hostel. Today has definitely been my wettest day so far! I felt a great sense of achievement. I got through a day of wet weather, enjoyed it and stayed dry on the inside! If you’d have told me that it would take until Day 80 to have a really wet day, I don’t think I’d have believed you!
Completing Day 80 feels like an amazing milestone. When I think about how far I’ve come, it feels so surreal. With 27 days to go, I’m really looking forward to the latter stages of my journey!
