Brough to John O’Groats
I had a lovely evening with my parents. It was lovely to spend my last evening with them.
Unfortunately, the hire car hadn’t arrived yet, so Elspeth very kindly took me back to Brough.
Before setting off, I had a very important job to do. Back at the end of Day 2, when I finished in Lizard, I met Doug, one of the locals. He gave me directions to Henry’s Campsite, then asked me what I was doing. We had a lovely chat and he said to me “why don’t people walk from the most southerly to the most northerly point?”. I said, “well, I am going via there.”. He responded, “well, send me a postcard when you get there!”. I liked the idea of sending a post card from the most northerly point to the most southerly point, and agreed. Whilst in Thurso, I’d picked up a postcard. I wrote it last night and before leaving Brough, I put it in the postbox.
With my postcard safely on its way, I set off along the back roads to John O’Groats! I have to admit that my eyes may have welled up, setting off, knowing it was my last day, but most of all, I felt amazed about how far I’ve come.
It was perfect walking weather for my last day: cloud cover to keep the sun off and a slight breeze to keep away the midges!
From Brough, I headed to Ham. The views out into the bay were beautiful, especially with the wildflowers in the foreground. With the bay on my left, I had a small lochan on my right.
I walked along the roads, passing houses, as I went along the coastline. I looked over and had views of Dunnet Head in the distance.
At Harrow, I decided to walk down to the harbour. I was so surprised to see seals lying there on the rocks. There are a lot of seals along this part of the north coast, and it was lovely to see some. I admired the seals from a distance, then found a spot on the shoreline to have a snack and enjoy the waves.
I returned to the road, then passed the Castle of Mey. It is a 16th Century castle, that was brought by the Queen Mother in 1952 and used to be her summer residence! It’s now open to the public and you can look around the castle and visit the gardens. There was no time for touristing today though, I was on a mission!
I took a little farm track, before rejoining the road and heading towards East Mey. The road was so close to the coastline. It was lovely to look out across the sea. I could see Orkney and the Isle of Stroma in the distance.
In East Mey, I came across a scone honesty shop, aptly named Scone with the Wind. The honesty shop was lovely, you could make tea and coffee, there were four different jams to enjoy with your scone, and an inside seating area. I stopped on the outside bench and had a fruit scone, it was very good. It’s obviously well known in the area, as a pair of women turned up, having made a special trip just for the scones!
From East Mey, I decided to detour off the road and join the North Coast Trail. The North Coast Trail is a trail from John O’Groats to Cape Wrath. It’s currently being established, so it’s not fully complete yet, but this eastern section is well signed.
The path started as a well trodden path across the moorland, before becoming fainter, as the heather had grown over the path. I didn’t mind though. It was lovely to have one last bit of moorland on my trip. I really enjoyed walking along the coastline, with the sea views and coming across secluded bays.
I rejoined the road, and was greeted by some beautiful highland cattle. There was even a young calf!
I then spoke to my sister as I walked along. My parents were still waiting for a hire car, my mum was on her way, but my dad had to wait for the cars to be swapped. All of the emotions of finishing, meant that this complication felt stressful. Ringing my sister really helped, she listened to me, then we reflected on my trip, my favourite bits, how far I’ve walked and the impact that it’s had. It was really nice to take time to think about all of these things.
I continued along the road and reached the signs for John O’Groats, it didn’t feel real. Throughout this journey, I’ve had little concept of the distance that I’ve travelled across the country. When I hike, I usually do circular walks, so I’m used to finishing in the same place, even if it’s over a few days. So, walking and travelling has been a new concept that I’ve still not grasped! When I look at a map, there’s a disconnect in my brain. I know I’ve been walking since 1st March, but I still can’t believe that I’ve walked all that way! It felt like someone had picked up John O’Groats and moved it 500 miles closer!
A quick walk through the town and I was at the signpost! It was absolutely amazing to reach there. I stood there for a moment, just looking at the signpost in disbelief, before I slowly walked up and touched it. Someone took a picture for me and I met a man who had just finished LEJOG on his bike. He started on 1st June, we congratulated each other, then I rang my sister.
My mum had walked out to meet me, but we’d missed each other, so a few minutes later she arrived, along with Elspeth. We celebrated together, then I went to the gift shop. I managed to get three badges and a fridge magnet! I was very pleased.
I went and signed the visitor book. It was lovely to see it full of other LEJOG/JOGLErs.
Then my Dad arrived, and we got even more photos together. It was so special to have both of them there with me.
I got my map out and Barnaby joined the photo too! I may have faffed at the signpost, but I hope the other tourists didn’t mind too much. I had walked 1700 miles to get there!
Then it was time for my little encore. John O’Groats is the furthest inhabited place on the mainland, but you can go a bit further north east. I wanted to go as far as I could go, so I had always planned to fully finish at Dunscanby Head. Just a couple of km further along the coast, it felt worth it to be surrounded by the sea on all sides! I’d described it to my parents as my encore, just a little bit more, as one last leg.
It was really lovely that my Mum and Riley the dog, joined me for this last section.
We started on the coastal path, before going over the fields. We could see the lighthouse in the distance, guiding us to the end point.
The coastline was spectacular, especially the stacks. They looked like something from a fantasy book.
I arrived at the trig point, and just as I did, my Dad arrived too! It was a massive trig point and it felt a fitting end to a massive walk!
The lighthouse was fenced off, so I went as far north east as I could go, and turned off my tracker for the last time!
It was so beautiful, and an amazing place to reach my final end point.
I took off my boots for the final time (these boots can consider themselves in retirement now!). My Dad was brave and smelt them! I don’t think I would. 🤣
After soaking in the view, it was time to head back home. We travelled down to Inverness in the evening, so that we can make the rest of the journey tomorrow and my parents can be back to work on Wednesday.
It was lovely being driven back and reflecting on everything. It felt so incredible that I had an idea over 7 years ago, and now I’ve done it!
I think it will take a few months to realise the full impact, but for the moment there’s not enough superlatives to explain this feeling!
At the start of this trip, I had considered that it would be a triumph if I made it to the end without being sunburnt! Well, I got so close, but with the cloud, I’d not put any suncream on today, and let’s just say I definitely should have done!
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