Author: DanielleWatson

Achentoul to Station Hill

After a lovely night at Elspeth’s, she dropped me back off in Achentoul, so that I could continue my journey. There was definitely a fresh breeze this morning, but I soon warmed up after I got moving!

I started by following the road towards Forsinard. It was a lovely and quiet A road, single track with passing places.

The views across Loch an Ruathair were beautiful. The water looked so blue as it reflected the sky above.

Along the way, I passed a stone, welcoming me to Mackay Country. This area was the seat of Clan Mackay and you can read more about it here.

I continued along the road and entered the Forsinard Flows Nature Reserve. This is one of the largest blanket peat bogs in the northern hemisphere. It was amazing to see such a large and rich bog!

At Forsinard train station, there was an RSPB visitor centre for the reserve. It was a really lovely visitor centre. I spent ages reading about the big restoration and playing their game where you had your own go at restoring the bog. Some of the facts really put into perspective how important our bogs are:

• If all of the carbon stored in the flow country peat bogs escaped, it would have the same effect on the climate as burning all of the petrol, oil, gas and coal that Scotland uses in 100 years!
• The Flow Country’s peat bog stores 400 million tonnes of carbon – three times as much as in all of the UK’s woodlands!

Peat bogs really are such an incredible landscape.

I continued down the road, then stopped in the tea shop for lunch. It was a lovely café and there was a little gift shop too. I brought a little book about all of the Scottish terms for rain. I’ll enjoy sorting some when I’m back home!

I continued along the road a bit further, then took a track up into the woodland and towards Sletill Hill.

The track continued and it took me out into the flow country. It was incredible to see the blanket of bog in front of me.

The wind started to pick up and I could see the rain moving in the distance. I wondered if I could make it to my camp spot before the rain started, but unfortunately it beat me!

I found a sheltered camp spot and pitched my tent. Tonight is my final camp on my trip. It feels so surreal, but also so peaceful that I’m so close to the end. It feels like the end of a really good book. All of the ends are untangling and lining up. There’s a sort of cozy feeling, knowing how far I’ve come! I’m really enjoying these last few days, relaxing into them and just enjoying the process. It’s such a privilege that I can savour every moment.

Allt an Inne Bheag to Achentoul

After a lovely wild camp, I was woken up by a herd of deer on the other side of the river. They seemed a little surprised but my presence!

It was another beautiful morning! I rejoined the grassy vehicle track and then took another to go around the eastern side of Ben Armine. The steep slope looked really dramatic amongst the rolling moorland.

The views across to the lochs were just breathtaking. I could see for miles and it was amazing to be surrounded by so much moorland.

The grassy tracks eventually joined a vehicle track, which I followed all the way to Badanloch Lodge. The track made for easy walking and I passed a couple of lochs, with locals fishing at them. It was nice to walk along in the peace and quiet.

I joined the road which took me all the way to Kinbrace. As I walked along, I was joined by Lapwing and Oyster Catchers swooping above me. I’d not realised how much I’d missed these birds. I’ve seen very few since the Pennine Way and it was nice to have them back!

On the way into Kinbrace, I passed the cemetery. I couldn’t help but think what a lovely, peaceful place to be buried.

I stopped on the bench at Kinbrace train station for a snack, then continued along the road to Achentoul. There are currently no trains at the moment as they’re doing work on the tracks, but when it’s in use, the railway is also used for transporting timber. It’s been really interesting to see how the timber industry operates in the Highlands. Although it seems that it is not without its controversy.

Walking along the road to Achentoul, I had views of blanket bog, with hills in the background. It was a perfect view to end the day.

I reached Achentoul, then I was picked up by Elspeth. Elspeth is a Guide leader in Thurso. She had very kindly offered to host me whilst I am up here. So, I’m staying with her tonight and on Saturday. It’s been a few weeks since I’ve met any guiding connections, so I’m really looking forward to staying!

Lairg to Allt an Inne Bheag

After a lovely and restful stay with Waggy and John, I was ready to set off from Lairg.

I started by climbing out of the village, on the road to Saval. The road was lovely and quiet, and the gorse bushes gave off their coconutty scent. The sun was shining and it was a beautiful day – perfect walking weather.

I then left the road, and followed a field boundary, cross country to reach Dalchork Wood. (A path was marked on the map, but it wasn’t visible on the ground, so I elected to follow the boundary instead.)

At the edge of the woodland, I was greeted with a 6ft deer fence. I was successfully over the top, when my phone case got caught. This resulted in me being on one side of the fence and my phone being on the other! I climbed over wearing my bag, as there was no way to lift it over, so at least I could take my bag off to hop back over the fence and grab my phone back.

I made my way through the woodland, to join the track.

I stopped for a snack, and Barnaby had his bear snacks too!

The track was lovely and wide, and not too stoney underfoot! Some of the woodland had been harvested, which meant that I got beautiful views over to Loch Tigh na Creige.

I was most of the way through the woodland, when I was greeted with a sign: “No unauthorised personnel beyond this point”! Uh oh! Going round would have meant a big diversion. I’d only seen one lorry in the woodland, and not even in this part, and I couldn’t hear any work going on, so it was likely that there was no work going on today, but I decided it was best to double check. I rang the main office, who gave me the number for Adam, their harvesting manager. I gave him a call and left a voice message. Meanwhile, I sat and ate a selection of snacks. (If I was going to need to divert, I might as well be well fuelled!) 15 minutes had passed and I was just about to decide to try my luck walking through, when Adam called back and gave me the all clear – phew!

I made it through the woodland and headed towards the Dalnessie estate. The main track had a big sign saying private (it did head straight to their houses), so I followed the boundary around. This was today’s third bit of excitement, which included having to climb another 6ft deer fence. I made it safely over, and was very glad to reach the track on the other side. Hopefully, that would be all of the excitement for today!

The track took me along the river, before turning into a grassy vehicle track. This was lovely to walk on – spongey underfoot, but nice and dry. It was wonderful to be surrounded by the beautiful rolling moorland. Walking along, it was amazing to think how my scenery had changed so dramatically since leaving Oykel Bridge.

I continued walking up stream along Allt Crom-allt, before joining Abhainn Srath na Seilge. I found a lovely camp spot, just where Allt an Inne Bheag, came down to join the River. It was a beautiful evening, the sun was shining and there was a light breeze. I laid my socks and boots out to air, then got tucked up into my tent.

After his first day on the trail, Barnaby got himself ready and tucked into his sleeping bag too!