Author: DanielleWatson

A’Chuil to Barisdale

After a lovely night in the bothy, I was ready to set off, for my first full day on the Cape Wrath Trail. I was excited to see what the trail would bring me today.

I started by rejoining the forest track, and following it out to the top corner of the woodland. It was nice to get going on the nice track.

The track then petered out and I followed the river up towards Lochan a’ Mhàim. The ground was quite boggy underfoot, especially with the rain coming down!

I perched on a rock for a break, whilst I admired the amazing collection of lichen. It was amazing to see so many different types, alongside each other.

I reached the Lochan, then I continued down towards Sourlies bothy. I crossed over the river (I narrowly avoided the water going over my boots!), and the path became clearer.

The footbridge across Allt a’ Ghillie Chruim had definitely seen better days, but the river was beautiful.

Just outside the bothy, I was joined by one of the locals. I stopped in the bothy for a quick snack, and a break from the rain.

Thankfully it was low tide, so I was able to walk along the beach, and around the headland, before crossing the salt marsh. Loch Nevis looked very atmospheric with the weather coming across it! It was lovely spotting the ringed plover amongst the pebbles.

Crossing the salt marsh definitely required big hopping!  Some big detours were required to avoid a knee deep experience!

I eventually made it to Carnach bridge and crossed over the River Carnach.

The Cape Wrath Trail continued up stream. It was a mixture of bog, squelchy grass and river crossings. For a short section, the estate had laid down green plastic matting. The matting sat on top of the bog and made it much easier to walk over. Though the gaps were just the right size to catch the tips of my walking poles!

The path continued up stream and went up the side of the gorge. This section took some concentration, as it was a little rocky, but it came with a great sense of adventure! It was worth it too, as the view back down the glen made it feel so secluded. I felt like I was in my own little magical part of the world.

That sense was magnified, when I continued up the glen, to find a little patch of bluebells. I have loved finding bluebells along my trip. I’ve been so lucky to experience the season for so long, as I’ve followed it up the country. The flower will definitely have a new meaning once I’m back home.

I climbed steeply uphill, to join a stalkers’ path. The rain was flowing down the path, turning it into a little river, but there were amazing views back down the glen. It was amazing to see where I’d come from.

Once I got to the bealach, I was very pleased to find an actual path taking me down to the bothy – not a path that’s turned into a river, or a boggier line through the bog, but an actual stony path! I practically skipped down!

I reached the bothy, and was once again very glad to have a dry place for the night! The bothy was very posh, with three rooms, a toilet and electric! The estate runs the bothy and had an honesty box for £5 per person, which felt like a bargain!

In the bothy I met Gordon and Stevie, who are walking the Cape Wrath Trail, as well as a couple from the Netherlands, who were walking to Inverie. They’re spending four months travelling around Scotland. It sounded like they’re having some amazing experiences.

Gordon is a Munro bagger. He’s got just 99 left, and is hoping to complete them in time to be within the first 10,000 recorded completers. It was really interesting to hear about his adventures, and funny to see his shocked face when I’d walked the distance that they’d done in two days, in one day! I was just as much in awe of his Munro bagging adventures.

Tonight was another night without phone signal, so I used my tracker to message my family and update them about my day. My tracker has really come into its own in this section. It’s been nice to still have contact with them, and to tell them about my day, as well as having the peace of mind that they know that I’m safe.

It’s been another great day on the trail, and I’m looking forward to tomorrow’s section, especially knowing that I have a hostel bed at the end of it!

Lochailort to A’Chuil

After a night in a bed, and a well earned Scottish breakfast, I was ready to set off on my journey.

Like yesterday, the next couple of days were going to include some hill bagging and cut out some dog legs on the Cape Wrath Trail. However, the weather has other ideas, so I’ve decided to follow my route to Corryhully bothy, but then stick to the Cape Wrath Trail. It adds on 11km of distance, but I’ve got wiggle room, as I’m half a day ahead of schedule.

I started by following the road, before taking the path towards Loch Beoraid. The path was a stony path, up the glen and through the bracken. It was nice to meander up the hillside.

It rose to give beautiful views of the glen beyond, before dropping steeply down (and steeply back up again) across a gully! This path was quite steep and I had to take my time. It took me about half an hour to do 500m! That did include a river crossing at the bottom of the gully too. I was climbing out, thinking “I would not bring a group down here!” .

The path was worth it though, as I was rewarded with beautiful views towards Meoble.

I then took the path along Loch Beoraid. It was a grassy path and sometimes indistinct, but as long as I kept the loch on my right, I was heading in the right direction.

At the end of the loch there was an old building. The left hand side was left open, as a bit of a bothy. I had a look in and thought about sheltering from the rain, but the midges had also had the same idea, so I had a quick snack outside instead!

I then headed up Allt a’ Ghlinne Dhuinn towards the bealach. There was no path marked on the map, but I occasionally saw the odd footprint, indicating that I’m not the first to come up this route. It was a lovely climb up the gorge, which opened out to mountains either side.

I then joined the path and descended down the glen to Corryhully bothy.

I stopped in the bothy and met a chap from Germany, who is walking the Cape Wrath Trail from north to south. We had a chat and I asked him about the next section. His report matched the description on Walk Highlands, saying that it would be good tracks, sandwiching a boggy section in the middle.

(Walk Highlands is a free website that describes many routes in Scotland, including the Munros and long distance trails. Before setting off in this section, I’d downloaded their description of the Cape Wrath Trail.)

I decided to continue on, it was 4.30pm, but my legs felt good and I knew there were also some camp spots along the way (if I didn’t make it to the next bothy).

I followed the track up the hill and reached the bealach, which was marked by a cairn. The descent down Gleann a’ Chaorainn was boggy. The path was pretty much a boggy depression, alongside the river! It was good fun though, I’m definitely part of the small percentage of hikers that enjoy bog!

At the bottom of the glen, I crossed over the River Pean and entered the woodland.

As I entered the woodland, there was a sign for the bothy and I knew there wasn’t far to go now. It was a lovely track through the woodland. Apparently there are wild boar in the area, but I didn’t spot any, as I went through.

I soon arrived at A’Chuil bothy. I was greeted by some deer in the distance, and beautiful views. The bothy was lovely, with two separate rooms and even a composting toilet!

I felt a real sense of achievement reaching the bothy. It was by far my longest day yet, finishing just before 9pm. I’d made good progress and had great fun. It felt amazing to be in the Cape Wrath Trail and in the remote parts of Scotland, that I was so looking forward to visiting, when I planned my trip!

I was joined in the bothy by Serena, from the Netherlands, who is doing the Cape Wrath Trail. It was nice to chat. One of my favourite things about visiting bothies is the people that you meet.

We were then rewarded with an amazing sunset. It looked like the hills were on fire! Then the deer came right up to the bothy.

P.S. Sorry these blog posts are being posted late. I’ve had very little signal on the Cape Wrath Trail and I’m updating them as I can. I’m doing well and have progressed on schedule. I can’t believe it’s just 7 days walking to go!

Gortenfern to Lochailort

After a lovely sunny evening, we woke up to a damp morning in the bay. We packed up our tents and soon headed out of the woodland and towards Acharacle.

Kathryn had parked her car at Arivegaig. Once we got to her car, she kindly topped up my water and she’d brought some supplies for me too! We said farewell and I continued along the road.

I had a quick stop in Acharacle church. It was a lovely little church, very well looked after and I was very grateful for the shelter from the elements!

I crossed over the River Shiel, then continued along the road to Ardmolich.

As I reached Ardmolich, there was a little honesty shed. It was full of all sorts of goodies, but I decided to buy some shortbread.

I then took the road into Kinlochmoidart. The road then turned into a track, as I headed towards the hills.

As I was walking along, the estate manager drove past. He stopped and asked me where I was going, then checked if I had enough stuff with me. I could tell that he was still concerned; I guess from his perspective he saw a young woman walking alone into some of Scotland’s most remote hills at 2pm in the afternoon, when the tops were covered in fog! So, I used the “I’m a qualified ML (mountain leader)” card, and he was happy then!

I continued along the track, until I reached Assary, which is an old abandoned village. It was amazing to imagine people living out here!

When I had planned today’s route, I had included two Corbetts (Scottish hills between 2500 and 3000 feet). However, today was not the weather for hill bagging! I instead decided to climb up the side of Allt an Fhiona to the bealach at the top.

The climb was steep (20-30% gradient) and there were only traces of a few footsteps, showing that someone had been up before me! I took my time and enjoyed the climb, but I was glad to reach the top! As I neared the top, the clag got thicker and I used my compass to make sure that I found the little lochan at the top.

From the bealach, I dropped down overa craggy spur and into Coire a’ Bhùiridh. As I climbed down the spur, the wind was quite gusty, and I was glad that I’d not gone to the summits. With all of the rain, the river was in spate and was forcefully flowing over the rocks!

As I started to drop down a vehicle track came into sight. Although it was a little wet at points, it made route finding easy and was a pleasant walk!

As I walked down, I decided that I’d got enough time to make it to the pub in Lochailort. So, my mum booked me a room, whilst I made my way down. The grassy track became a well established track and I made fast progress now (especially with the thought of a warm shower spurring me on)!

Finally, I made it to the Lochailort Inn. I felt a real buzz from completing today. It had been my first real venture into the remote hills on this trip and I felt good. I’d adjusted my plans due to the weather, and definitely knew it was the right decision.

I settled into my room, enjoyed a well earned shower and enjoyed my shortbread, whilst I talked to my parents. Then I fell asleep as soon as my head hit the pillow!