Day 90: 29/05/26

Gortenfern to Lochailort

After a lovely sunny evening, we woke up to a damp morning in the bay. We packed up our tents and soon headed out of the woodland and towards Acharacle.

Kathryn had parked her car at Arivegaig. Once we got to her car, she kindly topped up my water and she’d brought some supplies for me too! We said farewell and I continued along the road.

I had a quick stop in Acharacle church. It was a lovely little church, very well looked after and I was very grateful for the shelter from the elements!

I crossed over the River Shiel, then continued along the road to Ardmolich.

As I reached Ardmolich, there was a little honesty shed. It was full of all sorts of goodies, but I decided to buy some shortbread.

I then took the road into Kinlochmoidart. The road then turned into a track, as I headed towards the hills.

As I was walking along, the estate manager drove past. He stopped and asked me where I was going, then checked if I had enough stuff with me. I could tell that he was still concerned; I guess from his perspective he saw a young woman walking alone into some of Scotland’s most remote hills at 2pm in the afternoon, when the tops were covered in fog! So, I used the “I’m a qualified ML (mountain leader)” card, and he was happy then!

I continued along the track, until I reached Assary, which is an old abandoned village. It was amazing to imagine people living out here!

When I had planned today’s route, I had included two Corbetts (Scottish hills between 2500 and 3000 feet). However, today was not the weather for hill bagging! I instead decided to climb up the side of Allt an Fhiona to the bealach at the top.

The climb was steep (20-30% gradient) and there were only traces of a few footsteps, showing that someone had been up before me! I took my time and enjoyed the climb, but I was glad to reach the top! As I neared the top, the clag got thicker and I used my compass to make sure that I found the little lochan at the top.

From the bealach, I dropped down overa craggy spur and into Coire a’ Bhùiridh. As I climbed down the spur, the wind was quite gusty, and I was glad that I’d not gone to the summits. With all of the rain, the river was in spate and was forcefully flowing over the rocks!

As I started to drop down a vehicle track came into sight. Although it was a little wet at points, it made route finding easy and was a pleasant walk!

As I walked down, I decided that I’d got enough time to make it to the pub in Lochailort. So, my mum booked me a room, whilst I made my way down. The grassy track became a well established track and I made fast progress now (especially with the thought of a warm shower spurring me on)!

Finally, I made it to the Lochailort Inn. I felt a real buzz from completing today. It had been my first real venture into the remote hills on this trip and I felt good. I’d adjusted my plans due to the weather, and definitely knew it was the right decision.

I settled into my room, enjoyed a well earned shower and enjoyed my shortbread, whilst I talked to my parents. Then I fell asleep as soon as my head hit the pillow!

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