Greenhead to Bellingham
After a damp night, the rain settled down and I set off from Greenhead, ready for my next section of the Pennine Way. The cloud was low so I kept my waterproofs on, but it was mostly dry. The rain was forecast to be on and off all day.
I knew this next section of the trail well. Last year I was part of a Girlguiding Midlands trip walking Hadrian’s Wall. The year before we came up to recce the route, so this is my third year in a row where I have walked this section in May!
From the Walltown carpark, I climbed up to meet the wall. It was great to see it rising up and down in the distance. Being familiar with this section, also meant that I’m familiar with the ascents and descents. There are various gaps along this section, where you descend steeply losing 20-30m of height gain, to walk 5m and then climb 20-30m steeply upwards! I was very glad that I knew what to expect, and it was nice to revisit the wall again.
At every Roman mile along Hadrian’s Wall, the Romans built a mile castle. Along Walltown Crags, there was an image recreation of what it would have looked like in its day. It’s quite impressive, especially to think that the whole wall only took 6 years to build!
I then reached Cawfields carpark. I stopped under the shelter for a break and visited the coffee van, for a fruit tea and a sausage roll. I spoke to my sister for a little while, and was just saying that the weather was much better than forecast, when the rain started!
By the time that I got to Windshield Crags, the clag had fully come down. It felt quite nice to have some proper Pennine weather. It’s nice being dry on the inside but out in the elements.
Whilst I was at the trig point, Gemma caught up with me. We had another good chat, then like yesterday, she trotted off into the distance.
It was great to see the wall ahead of me. The cloud had lifted slightly, bringing light rain in its place.
I then reached Sycamore Gap, it was nice to see the stump with lots of good shoots. Whilst I was there, I met two volunteers for the Northumberland National Park. They walk along a section of the wall, litter pick and chat to visitors at the same time. It was lovely to chat to them and tell them about my challenge, but to also hear about the work of the National Park too.
Along Highshield Crags, I stopped in the woodland, for some shelter and some early lunch.
As I climbed my last bit of wall, the clag came down again, but it made it feel very atmospheric.
I then left Hadrian’s Wall, to continue north, as the Pennine Way took me over Ridley Common. This was another good section of bog. With the rain over the last 24 hours, it was definitely wetter, so some big hopping was required for parts!
For the rest of the afternoon, the Pennine Way took me through a mixture of woodland and over moorland. It was a nice mix.
At the footbridge near Horneystead Farm, there was a sign for a pit stop. If there was ever something to provide motivation up a hill this was one.
They obviously know how much it is appreciated, as there was another sign as you got closer.
The pit stop was an interesting place. There was a bed, toilet and shower, as well as a selection of snacks and drinks for donations. I really appreciated somewhere dry to sit for a moment. Some lemonade and a packet of crisps later, I set off to Bellingham.
5 miles later I was at the campsite. I’d rung ahead to check that they had space for a backpacker, and warn them that I’d be arriving at about 6.
In the campsite shop, I brought a Pennine Way badge. I know I’ve not quite finished it yet, but the badge was beautiful and a bargain at only 50p! I then got chatting to the campsite owner about my walk. He was so kind and upgraded me to a camping pod! It was so kind of him, and I was so grateful, after a damp day in the hill.
The pod is essentially like a wooden, carpeted tent, with heating and electric. I was in full luxury! The campsite is a Caravanning and Camping Club site, so the showers were great and there was even a building with a fully equipped kitchen for campers!
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