Byrness to Mounthooley
After a lovely night camping at the Border Forest Holiday Park, I was ready bright and early to set off on my day across the Cheviots. I had a big day ahead of me. I wasn’t sure when I set off, if I would go to my bunkhouse as planned or push to Kirk Yetholm this evening. My plan was to see how I felt and go with it.
As I made my way towards Byrness village, there was a lovely information board about the Pennine Way. It was amazing to look at it and see how far I’ve come!
I climbed up through the woodland and onto Byrness Hill. On reaching the access land, there was a sign, about the Otterburn Ranges that I was about to cross. The Pennine Way goes along the edge of some of the MOD danger areas, so there were a few different signs warning about pyrotechnics. The sign also mentioned that I had the last 24 miles of the Pennine Way ahead of me, and some big climbs too!
The Pennine Way took me along the top of the grassy ridge line. This is one of my favourite types of walking – lovely views and easy underfoot. I could relax into the rhythm and really enjoy it. There were clouds in the sky, but it was dry and a bit of wind kept me cool.
I stopped for a rest between Ravens Howe and Ogre Hill. I put a layer on as the temperature had started to drop. I didn’t meet any ogres, but I did meet a chap who was doing a charity run from Edinburgh to Leeds. He was using the Pennine Way until Byrness, then continuing along roads to Bellingham. It was really interesting to hear about his challenge and we wished each other well.
On my way to Chew Green, I met a JOGLE-er. He started from John O’Groats on 1st April and is hoping to reach Land’s End in a couple of months. It was nice to chat about our respective routes.
As I continued on, the rain came in and it was time to put my waterproofs on. Thankfully it was only light.
Before climbing Lamb Hill, I stopped in the refuge hut for some lunch. I was very grateful for the shelter. Whilst having my lunch, I sat and read some of the entries in the visitors book. It was really nice to read all of the comments. A lot were from people who were finishing the Pennine Way.
I continued along the Pennine Way and reached Lamb Hill. This part of the Pennine Way was flagged, so it was nice and easy walking, interspersed with a bit of bog hopping (when the flags stopped).
For most of the day, the Pennine Way took me along the England-Scotland border. It was funny walking along thinking that it was England on one side and Scotland on the other, and how the access rules were different!
I hopped across the border to reach Windy Gyle summit, and made my first steps (of this trip) onto Scottish soil! It felt amazing, to think that I’ve got myself all the way from Land’s End to here.
I hopped back onto English soil and continued along the Pennine Way. I met another lady who was recce-ing for the Spine Challenger North. We had a quick chat about her preparations and my challenge. She very kindly offered somewhere for me to stay in Fort William. I was very grateful, but I turned it down, as I have a very special visitor coming to join me there, for our birthday weekend!
I climbed up King’s Seat, then continued climbing towards The Cheviot. The Pennine Way does an optional detour to The Cheviot summit and back. I have previously bagged The Cheviot and with the wind blowing into me as I climbed up, and the mist rolling in, I decided to continue to Auchope Cairn. It was amazing watching the mist roll in and out around me.
From there, I dropped down to the second mountain refuge hut. It was another lovely hut. I again enjoyed reading the visitors book. Someone had also left a 2-pack of Borders Viennese Whirls, which I enjoyed before the mice got to them. Thank you to whoever left them!
With another 11km to go until Kirk Yetholm, I decided that I would drop down to Mounthooley and have a night in the bunkhouse as planned. It was 4pm, a bit early to set up camp at the hut, and a bit late to continue to Kirk Yetholm. (I wanted to make sure that I really enjoyed my last miles of the Pennine Way.) The bunkhouse was 2.5km off route and downhill, but I decided that a warm bed and shower was worth it!
The walk down to the bunkhouse was beautiful. With the protection of the valley, the wind had dropped and it was a nice grassy path all the way down.
I soon reached the bunkhouse, which I was amazed to find that I had all to myself for the evening! It was definitely worth the 2.5km detour. There was a lounge and dining area, wood stove, hot showers, full kitchen and I had my choice of 24 beds!
It’s amazing to think that tonight is my last night in England, until I finish my trip and I am back home. When I thought about that, it really hit home how far I have walked!
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